Electric Motorcycle Project
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php
Pieces
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry070424-162500
I think I'm going to settle for putting it back together and picking up a spare set of brushes sometime.
Otherwise, the project has been on hold while I finished up my CNC build. I'm planning to make a custom mounting plate for the motor once it's done. I'm still pondering the donor bike. I figure that it'll cost about $400 minimum to get it road worthy. It needs tires, brake service and some of the handlebar controls are missing. Then there's the title issue. I think it'll be cheaper to make a new frame and steal some parts - or just buy an inexpensive road worthy bike. It would definitely reduce the frustration factor.]]>Das Motor
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061115-211415
motor came today! I'm dressed up for some work visitors so I didn't get into it during lunch. I'll put up more info as I tear into it.]]>Got motor?
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061109-192732
Since I'm saving on the motor, I'm hoping to swing a mill sometime soon...]]>ooh, bb600 user group
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061106-223720
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BB600/]]>Still working on this beastie
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061106-222826
Mosfet controller upgrade
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061027-214942
The reason? voltage. The problem? A single IGBT is something like $250/ea
For the motorcycle, 48-72 volts is acceptable. This means that we can use MOSFETs to do the power switching.
Over 80 volts or so, the on resistance goes up - meaning power is wasted, and heat is generated. Low on resistance = cool running.
It's intended for 24-48v and 200-400amps. That's based on the IRF1010. The IRF1010 is rated at 60v, 60A, 130W power dissipation and .011Ohm on resistance. ($1.27 or so at mouser) 4x = 240Amp
I dug around and came up with the Fairchild HUF75545P3. It's rated for 80v, 75A, 270W PD with .01Ohm on resistance. With these fets, it should be god for a 72V system. Not bad eh? ($3.29/ea at mouser)
4x = 300Amp, 6x = 450Amp.]]>Motors and models
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061027-051620
I ran across http://hitorqueelectric.com/ when I was checking out the white zombie ev racer. Frank of hitorque built some nice stuff. I think that I'm going to have him make me up an Advanced DC 6.7" motor. More on that later.
I've also decided that I'm going to build a model version to test with. (Think Back to the Future) I'm going to use it to develop my pwm throttle controller. A seperate module will house the mosfet pack. As the development progresses, I'll will publish the design - full source, schematics, etc. It should be fairly embarassing.
For some reason, the EV community is bad at publishing controller designs. A scanned in low res image just doesn't do it for me.]]>Ok, scratch that idea
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061026-215224
If I do all the work to get it restored, I'll never do the EV conversion. Looks like I'll be selling off the extra parts.]]>Sans Title
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061024-163557
ITS Titles to get it fixed. I used to deal in older cars, so I know it's the easiest way to get things fixed up.]]>Restoring the machine
http://biobug.org/ev-motorcycle/blog/index.php?entry=entry061023-161527
I got the bike on sunday! It's pretty complete, but in dire need of restoration. The brakes haven't been used in a looooong time. It has front and rear discs, so I get to deal with two hydraulic systems.
The motor has good compression, so I'm going to restore the rest of the bike and get it running before starting the conversion. My time is pretty limited for a while, so it's a good compromise. It's also far, far easier to get it licensed and inspected with the original hardware.