This is my 1979 CJ. The body is so clean it's scary.
My Electrical System
Handy Reference Material
AMC 304 emissionsRough, but useful.
Motorcraft 2150 carb on the AMC 258Die BBD!
4.0L Head on the AMC 25840 more horses
Add intermittent wipers to your CJ
33"x12.5" BFG Mud T/As on AMR 15x10 aluminum wheels. (I swapped the cheapo 35s for some decent 33s!)
4" Skyjacker lift with Rancho 5000 steering brace and skyjacker shocks. Someday I'll replace these with a Rancho 9000s! Really!
New AMC 304 in September, 1999. Rebuilt T5 mated to a Dana 300 Transfer case. Headman headers to flowmasters to true 2.5" dual exhaust.
Funky old rear bumper with Gerry can mount and Fiberglass whip CB antenna.
Dana 44 Wide Track Rear from a 1986 CJ. Dana 30 Wide Track Front with Superwinch hubs.
Currently only has 2.72s, I have 4.10 gears for the front, but not the rear.
Fiberglass Body, Hard top with doors new weather seal on liftgate.
Tuffy rear Lockbox and drawer.
New Sony headunit. Boston Acoustic Speakers.
Dual voltage guages, new centech wiring harness, Stainless Steel Brake Lines. Repro Tachometer. All new switches in the dash, except the ignition switch. New wiper moter, need to get new switch for it.
New rear crossmember replaced when body was.
4WDHW Fiberglass Body.
8000lb Warn Winch, solenoids mounted under the hood.
Dual Optimas in a Tomken tray, New 130Amp Alternator, A/C compressor mounted, all AC parts(just removed for winter), need new hoses and reciever/dryer then charge. Tested it with old hoses, it works.
Howe Industries Aluminum Radiator with Built in heat exchanger.(Brand new)
Holly 4 Barrel, Offenhauser Dual plane intake with EGR. Won't quite make Carb, but it passed the emissions in St Louis.
Was Durabacked, but I have a Vinyl mat on the floor - fiberglass so rust isn't a problem.
Tomken Steering Brace, 6 month old steering shaft. Blazer heater motor.
CV Drive Shaft in the rear, heavy duty in the front. New heater control cables.
More that I've forgotten.
Added Tomken Steering brace, Heater Motor upgrade, ground for heater motor, reinforcement to fender mounts on tub, Transmission Lowering Kit.
Added Tomken Battery Tray, Dual Optimas, Battery Isolater, Vinyl floor, Tuffy Storage, Complete Centech Wiring harness, New heater control cables, new switches and lights in the dash, new voltage and oil pressure guages, Power Brakes, in-dash speakers, 1/8" molded vinyl floor covering in cockpit, new shift knobs, removed lowering kit and got new drive shafts. 22 1/2" rear CV drive shaft and 32 1/2" heavy duty shaft with longer slide in front.
My jeep wouldn't pass inspection the first time around, so I had to make some more mods.
K&N filter, Emissions from a Grand Wagoneer, Offenhauser 360 Dual plane intake with EGR kit, Welded AIR tubes into the Headman 'Hedders' and wrapped them in Thermotec exhaust wrap, New CTO switch for EGR, replaced broken Chrome coil mount with stock one from Grand Wagoneer.
I went to get inspected.... again and failed.... again. Much better this time, My power steering bracket is cracked and I forgot to install the freakin' heat tube that runs from the header to the intake. But, the dealer I went to had the kit I needed to install the heat tube and I know where to get the bracket. All I have to do is run to the junkyard again and fetch it. That's frustrating since I was just there a couple of weekends ago picking up a pair of York compressors for my on-board air setup. Until next week!
YES! I passed inspection on monday and my awesome GF went out and picked up the plates from the DMV. I went to a jeepthing meeting and wound up buying a locked(welded spiders) Dana 30 with 4.10s for the jeep. Good deal and I can drop it in when I'm ready with the rear end. Also it sounds like I can get a transmission adapter for my T18 for $400 or so.
I finally got the front end from ChrisPy with the 4.10s and a spare set of axles with it. This is cool. I now have two sets of spare axles for the front end. The new front end has spring over and welded spiders. It also has a new set of superwinch hubs on it, so now I have spare hubs too. I managed to get out to a guy that had a pile of parts for sale and picked up a complete A/C system as well as a pair of beat up hard doors cheap.
Install Cruise control from Grand Wagoneer, Fab Bumpers, Tire
Carrier, Get a new Soft-top, Build better roll cage, install YJ
flares in rear, build control panel for dash, Regear, get lockers,
Install T-18 that's sitting around, build on-board Air, Add Air-conditioning(I
live in 99% humidity land), add on-board Welder, Get 33"
street tires mounted.
I ordered the adapter for my T-18 today. Hopefully it will show up fairly soon. It should ship on monday and possibly get there next week. I'm hoping it does so I can get it all done on the weekend.
Been a while since I updated this. The T-18 didn't work out, since it turned out that I actually had a T&C 4 speed transmission. This weekend I'm installing a 130amp alternator. It's for a 1994 mustang with 5.0L HO Engine. Lots of stores in my area have this thing in stock. Got mine for $89 with a $45 core. Also installing a Howe Aluminum Radiator. I pulled the A/C stuff for the winter and in the spring I'm going to have new hoses made, but I plan on integrating the evaporator with the existing heater box instead of using the lame under dash unit that gets in my way every time I want to do anything under the dash.
Well, the wiper linkage broke and burned out the wiper motor. I decided to get a newer style 4 wire wiper moter(these are cheaper) and a new switch to go with it. That didn't work out at all. I temporarily wired up the new motor so I have high and low speed. The only problem is that there is no park, so they stop when I turn them off. Someone on the Jeep-l told me that I could get the intermittent wiper controls from a wagoneer. I pulled one out of an '84 with the relay box and the switch for $5. The switch alone from 4wdh is over $30. This is a much higher quality switch than the older 3 way CJ style. There are 6 wires you need to hook up for this. 2 Red ones: One gets +12v and the other goes to the washer motor. The other 4 go to the wiper motor. 2 are high and low speed. These can be found by putting a meter on each wire and turning the switch to find the hot one. The other 2 wires are the park sensor. These don't seem to have any order and worked just fine connected to the other 2 wires on the motor. You'll know you got it right when you have intermittent, high and low speed wipers.